Exploring Leon

I was thinking this morning how most Americans are so spoiled by being able to jump in a car and go anywhere at any time. When you're on foot like I am here in Spain you have to actually plan to get from point A to point B but the journey it's a lot more fun.

I really enjoyed a two and a half hour train ride through the mountains between Oviedo San Leon. It followed the path of the Camino San Salvador which has the reputation for being the most rugged. It looks as though that is true.

Oviedo was a beautiful city, but there is a lot American influence. There are a lot of American brands and stores and even McDonald's. Leon is also a beautiful city but entirely European. There are a lot more small cafes and local shops. Other than the always  present American music, it feels very different from Oviedo.

The Leon Cathedral dominates the city. I took a couple hundred pictures in 2016 when Laurel and I were here, and I got a few more today. The dominating feature of Leon is the stained glass. I did the metric to English conversions and the total stained glass is almost a half an acre in area. 

The majority of the cathedral was completed in the mid-1300s, but there were additions made up until 1600. When this cathedral was built the city of Leon was capital of the Kingdom of Leon, but only had 5000 people. Imagine building this structure in a city that's size.

I did the English audio tour and they kept referring to the simple Gothic lines of the cathedral. I don't know about that. Look at the photos and make your own decision.

Back to Oviedo and then Leon

 “If you are seeking creative ideas, go out walking. Angels whisper to a man when he goes for a walk.”  Raymond Myers

Walking  around town I come up with a plan b, c, d,..

I'm going to enjoy my extra time in Oviedo, but I may have picked the wrong time of year to come to Spain. In my two previous Caminos, one in May and one in September I walked a total of 3 hours in the rain. It's rained every day since I've been here but many times just a mist like out in Oregon.

I planned to start after the danger of snow was gone, but the rain isn't much better for walking.

A fellow Pilgrim I'm at had a similar story this is his fifth Camino and he's never seen persistent rain like this.

I had a great tour of the cathedral today that lasted over two hours. It was extremely interesting and I learned a lot about the hidden messages the artist heavy hidden in the various artworks.

For example. There are six pillars that hold up the roof of The Relic chamber. Each pillar is a pair of the Apostles. The hidden message is that Thomas has blue sapphire eyes and none of the other apostles have anything special. Because the artist is sending the message that only Thomas needs eyes to see. The others do not need to see to believe.

Another hidden message is in the altar piece. In the scene depicting the the wedding Feast at Cana there are only five wine jars. The artist knew that the six jar is in an Alcove to the left of the altar. I can't speak to the actual origin of the jar, but for a thousand years it has been filled with water on the feast of Saint Matthew and given to the congregation.

Plan B avoiding the rainy mountains

"There is no such thing as bad weather, only inappropriate clothing."  Sir Ranulph Fiennes 

I headed out this morning in good spirits after a good breakfast.

I pretty quickly covered the 7 km from where I stayed last night Palatin and arrived in the city of Grado. There are two churches along the Camino in town that I plan on visiting. Capilla de los Dolores and the Iglesia Parroquial de San Pedro. Chapel was closed so I walked up the street to San Pedro. It was just a couple minutes past 10 when I walked in and found the 10 a.m. Sunday mass. I can take a hint and  stayed for mass.

After leaving the church the temperature seem to drop a bit and a misty rain started. I kept moving on and came to the monastery of

Cornellana. In my early planning I thought I might stay the night here. It sits at the junction two rivers which made for a suitable place to build a monastery. 

The San Salvador monastery has operated for  1,000 years this year. Operated in the earlier centuries as a Cluniac order. At that time it was one of the most important monasteries in Asturias and a key stopping point for pilgrims along the Camino Primitivo. It remains an active Benedictine monastery.

The monastery has the reputation for being haunted. An attraction for some and others  move on quickly.

Salas

Almost everything there is to see or do in Salas is centered around the Colegiata de Santa María la Mayor, a 16th century church whos tower  is now a museum for pre-Romanesque pieces.

I don't have a lot of pictures because the rain persisted throughout the day with the temperature rarely getting above 50. I had to walk in most of my warmer clothes and was wet from the inside with perspiration due to the climb and the outside from the rain. I took a quick shower put on my remaining dry clothes and went to bed.

When I woke up on Monday, all my clothes from the previous day were still wet and it was raining. I put on some dry clothes, some wet clothes and started out.

The Misty Rain persisted with temperatures in the 40s .After walking for about 2 hours feeling sorry for myself I saw a cab with a fellow Pilgrim getting in. I'd already decided to try to find a way out of the weather so I split the cab and went back to the Grado.

I thought about spending the night in Grado but decided to sit down and have breakfast and coffee to make a decision. The bus lines and trains are very limited from here going west towards Santiago. I decided to take a bus back to Oviedo where there's a train station, a bus station, and an airport.

I booked a place for a couple nights and was able to wash and dry all over my clothes. I spent two days in Oveido seeing the rest of the town and enjoying a long tour of the cathedral.

Now for a few days I play tourist trying to get back to the Camino west of the mountains. In the morning I leave by train for Leon. The train follows the Camino San Salvador route through the heart of the mountains going south. 

Connections are a bit challenging So I plan to spend two days in Leon and then take the train in Lugo. In Lugo I can pick up the Camino Primitivo again and walk the last 100 km to Santiago.

Got to be flexible when trying to do the Camino, and it helped to be in a country where most bus and train fares are less than 10 euros between cities. A 3 euro bus ride erased 3 days walking.

I'm still enjoying everything about Spain. I'm being challenged with having to speak in Spanish.  Very few people in this part of Spain speak any English. 

I'll keep you up on further plans as they change.

Day 3 Paladin to Salas

 “Bring a compass. It’s awkward when you have to eat your friends.”  Unknown

I did bring a compass this time.

I had a good night's sleep last night an 8-person dorm with only five people. There were a few heavy snores in the crowd, but the windows were open and you could hear the rapids from the river and early in the morning you could hear the cow bells from the dairy on the other side of the river. Relaxing.

I grabbed a quick breakfast and headed out towards Grado. It was about 50 degrees and just misting rain, so I didn't need rain gear. 

It's Sunday and Grado has a large Market Day which was good because today is Mother's Day in Spain  and restaurants are packed. I was able to get a second breakfast of an egg and bacon sandwich.

From Grotto I have about a 1200 ft climb to Salas where I'm planning on staying the night. I just hope the rain holds off a little more.

Today's climb is the first test to see if I'm ready for the mountain pass. The next 3 days are where most of the climbing comes in with almost 3,000 ft up and down each day.

Day 2 Leaving Oviedo moving west

“There is no moment of delight in any pilgrimage like the beginning of it” - Charles Warner

Sunrise wasn't until 8 this morning and there was free breakfast where I was staying. A great change to fuel up and take a few pieces of fruit for the road.

I had a great day in Oviedo on Friday. I think I may have been tired due to the plane trip and the lovely airline food. So yesterday I had breakfast, second breakfast, early lunch,, pre-siesta lunch, after siesta snack. and dinner. Including four Cafe Con Leche. Spain shuts down from 2 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. everyday for a little quiet time. So we can all toddlers again.

As the they say "man plans and God laughs"...So with that in mind I attended today's pilgrim mass at the Chapel of the Chaste King in the cathedral.  That refers to Alphonse II, the first pilgrim, who I talked about in an earlier post. There were about 100 people there, about half pilgrims and a half local. The Chapel photo is in the lower left. I hope these photo collages are working, because they upload a lot faster an individual pictures. I am also using voice to text so I don't have to type.

I'm heading west this morning. The normal day 1 is in the town of Grado. The guidebook stops can be crowded, so I am stopping in the town of Paladin instead in a small hostel along the river. It gets great reviews. 

I shouldn't talk about plans, but I'm still planning to walk to the guidebook town of Salas on Sunday. I need to be in a larger town on a Sunday because many smaller towns completely closed. Religious tradition is Alive and Well in Spain and Sunday is Labor Day holiday.

Day 1 - Jet lag recovery in Oviedo

 “Always plan ahead. It wasn’t raining when Noah built the ark.” –Richard Cushing

I got up this morning to a light rain and decided to change plans and spend an extra day in Oviedo. It's a beautiful city and other than the cathedral I didn't get a chance to visit any other sites. Also, I would like to use another day to get over jet lag. We had a dozen crying babies on a flight with lots of turbulence and I did not get a lot sleep.

I got 14 hours sleep last night and  the place I am staying in serves a free full american-style breakfast. So, being an American, I ate too much and I feel great. It is good to know that tomorrow I can start early with a full stomach.

One of the best things about not planning too far ahead if you can make changes easily. I don't have reservations anywhere except my final day in Santiago, so today's change is very easy to make. I have several extra days in my schedule or just such a occasion.

This morning I had breakfast with Michael from Cologne Germany. He and a friend have been walking from Cologne to Santiago 1-2 weeks every year. They made it as far has Oviedo, and his friend passed this year. Michael is headed to Santiago solo this year. Every time I have walked the Camino I hear stories like this and it is one of the things that makes it a beautiful experience.

Sun just came out, so I hope I'm not missing a great walking day.

San Juan el Real, Oviedo University, San Triso, and the Cloister Real.

More views  of the Cathedral.

A city with amazing public art for a city of 180,000 people.

Day 0 - Oviedo

“If you can find a path with no obstacles, it probably doesn’t lead anywhere.” Frank A. Clark

I am finally here in Oviedo - the start of the Camino Primitivo. After dropping my bag at the Hostel -- I sprung for a single room to get over jet lag -- I headed to the Cathedral.

Catedral de San Salvador de Oviedo

The Cathedral of the Holy Saviour, was erected in 1388 over the previous cathedral, which was founded in the 8th century. I got my first stamp in my Pilgrim passport and headed for the Cámara Santa de Oviedo -- the holy chamber. Dating from 802. It is located within the Cathedral, attached to the southern transept of the cathedral, and it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Among other treasures it houses the Arca Santa chest reliquary of the Sudarium of Oviedo.

The Sudarium of Oviedo or Shroud of Oviedo is a bloodstained cloth kept in the Arca Santa. The Sudarium (Latin for sweat cloth) is claimed to be the cloth wrapped around the head of Jesus Christ after he died. There several dozen congruencies' with the Shroud of Turin that can't be easily discounted. It has been revered for almost 1500 years.

As it had been for the Romans and Visigoths, the Moors did not find mountainous territory easy to conquer, and the lands along Spain's northern coast never became part of Islamic Spain. There are many more relicts displayed here as well. They were moved here for safe keeping from the Moors, but were never returned to their original location. 

After the Cathedral I headed to the Decathlon sports super store to buy a pair of walking poles. The TSA has determined that walking sticks are weapons and must be checked. My backpack was carryon so I need to get my walking poles here. They are 1/3 of the cost in the US, so it was a good decision. I may check a bag on the return to keep the poles and get some souvenirs in Santiago.

Next stop was Calle Gascona -- the zona de sidrerías or cider district. I am told I need to drink all the cider I want for the next few days because any cider the crossed the mountains is no longer drinkable. When in Asturias -- do as the locals tell you.

Finally - Traveling to Spain - I will be there in the morning

 

“You’re off to great places, today is your day. Your mountain is waiting, so get on your way.”  

Dr. Seuss

Here I go ... Jacksonville - Miami - Madrid - Oviedo. Planes all the way this time. There is no high-speed train from Madrid to Oviedo and for about $20 more I can fly. I will have a 40 minute bus ride from the airport to downtown after I land. I land in Madrid for breakfast, but it will be 2 AM Jacksonville time.

On the way back I fly Santiago - Madrid - Miami - Jacksonville. There is a new high speed train soon from Santiago, so if I return again I will have options.

I looks like I will be getting some rain when I am there. This area of Spain is a lot like the Smoky Mountains in the US and gets 80 inches of rain a year. The daily forecasts are for less than 1/4" of rain each day in late afternoon. Looks like a tentative plan for early morning walking and rainy nap time during siesta.

From Spain I will be off grid most of the trip. There is WIFI (pronounced 'wee fee' in Spain) in most cafes and bars, but my plans are to update the Blog via an email feature. I will write an email offline with imbedded photos and send one email a day when I have a WIFI connection.

Mountains west of Ovideo Spain

Two days to go before Spain - Retirement (Jubilación!)

 “We don’t stop hiking because we grow old, we grow old because we stop hiking.” Finis Mitchell

When I was getting ready to retire this year I decided to do a solo Camino as a way to transition into a new phase of life. When I looked up the Spanish word for 'retirement' -- 'jubilacion' I knew I made the right decision. The english word jubilation is defined as 'a feeling of great happiness and triumph'. What a great way to approach retirement.

After college I worked for 20 years in Industrial Forestry, followed by 10 years in Environmental Management and 10 years in IT Program Management. As happens in a career, things change a little at a time until you are in a completely different profession. I started out working outside 30+ hours a week and ended up sitting behind two computer monitors at home during a pandemic. 

However, I never stopped being a Forester. As kids came, the family vacationed in most of the National Parks. I also  enjoyed passing my love of nature on as Boy Scout leader for 25 years. 

1979 - West Virginia

2022 - Covid working from home

That is one of the reasons the experience of the Camino is attractive. Walking for days through the landscape gives you a true appreciation for nature and the people who interact with it.

There is a tradition on the Camino Primativo. When sharing communal dinners in the evening with fellow pilgrims in the hostels, you are asked to describe your pilgrimage in one word. I have mine  -- 'Jubilacion!'.

Note: Today I was filling out some Spanish travel papers and for 'occupation' I was able to select 'jubilado' as my occupation. 😀

Next stop Spain....

Three days to go before Spain - Camino Primitivo - The 'Original' Camino

"Whoever goes to St. James and not to the Saviour, visits the servant and misses the Master."

The city of Oviedo is the start of the Camino Primitivo. Today, in the cathedral of Oviedo, there are many sacred relics dating back 2000 years. The cathedral itself is dedicated to 'The Holy Saviour' and a famous  Spanish saying to encourage pilgrims to pass through Oviedo is "Whoever goes to St. James and not to the Saviour, visits the servant and misses the Master."

This will be my third Camino walking to the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia in northwest corner of Spain. To reference the map below: 

• In 2016 Laurel and I walked west from Leon to Santiago along the Camino Francis shown by the green pins above
• In 2018 Laurel and I walked north from Porto, Portugal along the Camino Portugues show by the pink pins above
• In 2022 I will be walking solo west from Oviedo along the Camino Primitivo show by the yellow pins above

In 2019 (remember before Covid) 350,000 pilgrims from 190 countries received their Compostela certificate for completing the pilgrimage. the Camino Frances (60%), the Camino Portugues (24%), Camino Inglese (6%), and the Camino Primitivo (5%) are the most popular routes.

Route of the Primativo

The Primativo path is through and over the Cantabrian Mountains about 50 miles inland from the north coast of Spain.

There is a lot of climbing. Over the roughly 240 miles there is an elevation gain of 32,306 ft. Luckly what goes up must come down, so the downhill distance is similar. 

Although the majority walk for religious reasons, 24% of the arrivals in Santiago said they had no religious reason for walking the Camino. The Camino is an amazing journey, and whether or not a person identifies as religious they all find something special on the Way. 

On arriving in Santiago pilgrims receive the Compostela. It is a certificate of completion of the Camino de Santiago, and is issued to you by the Pilgrim's Office in Santiago de Compostela. There are two types of certificate. One is in Latin issued to pilgrims who declare that they did the camino for religious or spiritual purposes. The second certificate is for those who did it for cultural or historical purposes and this is written in Spanish. 

The Camino is not a race or distance contest. To receive the Compostela, you must have completed the last 100 kilometers of the camino on foot, or the last 200 kilometers by bicycle. The pilgrim's passport is used as proof. For me the passport is a better way to remember the Camino than the Compostela, but I cherish both.

Part of my 2016 Pilgrim Passport

Four days before walking - The Camino Network

  "Europe was made on the pilgrim road to Compostela"   Pope John Paul II

The Camino de Santiago is network of ancient pilgrim routes stretching across Europe and finishing in Santiago de Compostela. This is where the remains, or relics, of St. James (Santiago in Spanish), are said to be buried beneath the altar of the cathedral.

James was assassinated in the year 42, in Jerusalem by King Herod. He was the first of the apostles to be martyred. The apostle's body was recovered by two of James’ disciples -- Theodore and Athanasius. The body was transported by boat to the coast of what is now Portugal and buried in the family tomb of a Roman convert in Galicia and lay hidden for almost 800 years.

For many non-religious people I have met on the Way in the past, I identify Saint James as the man to Jesus' left in Da Vinci's painting the Last Supper. 😕

The monk who discovered the grave contacted King Alfonso II of Asturias to validate the finding. In the year 834 on the path now known as the Camino Primitivo (original), King Alfonso II became the first pilgrim. He began walking from his palace in Oviedo, crossing the mountains that separate Asturias from Galicia, and on to the site of the recently discovered grave of the Apostle James the Greater.

Alfonso then purchased nine square miles of land located around the tomb of the Apostle, which would be known as the Manor of Santiago. He ordered a church to be built on the place of discovery, the precursor of the present Cathedral. At the same time, he requested the creation of a monastic community to guard the remains of the saint which gave rise to the first Compostela Monastery and Convent.

Over the next century pilgrims, in a search for an easier path farther away from the battles with the Muslims, opened the Camino del Norte.

At the end of the 10th century, with the advance of the reconquest of Muslim lands, a route less harsh than the Camino Primitivo for pilgrims from all over Europe was  developed. The Camino Frances becoming the main route throughout the Middle Ages and is still the main route today.

This trip I will enjoy following the path of King Alfonso II -- the first pilgrim on the Camino Primativo.

King Alfonso the Chaste